Epiphany

Yesterday we celebrated a completely unexpected tradition which is a fascinating amalgam of pagan and Christian rituals. Today, of course, is Epiphany. The day set aside for the visit to the baby Jesus of the three wise men bearing gifts who had followed the star to find the child. It is a significant holiday here with most shops and businesses closed. In Oberbozen, where we visited this fall in the northern part of Italy, priests travel throughout the town and mark the top of the door frames to bring good luck in the year to come. The marks are left for the year and refreshed in subsequent years.

In the section of Italy where we are living, it is customary for children to hang a stocking on the night before which is then filled with presents to be opened on Epiphany, shadowing the gifts of the wise men. Then it gets fun. The bringer of these gifts isn't Santa Clause, Saint Nick or any form of jolly fat man at all. They are brought by a witch, named Le Befana. Indeed, the word Befana translates as Epiphany. How a witch figures into the Christ narrative I have yet to discover, although I am sure there is an explanation of the symbolism somewhere.

In Viterbo, the occasion is marked by a parade. The route begins at the Porta Romana, comes down Via Garibaldi to Fontana Grande, continues down Via Cavour past the school and then ends at the Piazza de Plebescito. The procession began around 3 pm with a group of drummers and flag twirlers walking the route to alert the spectators.

Following that, a group of bearers dressed as witches were escorted along the reverse of the route by a marching band. This process is identical to that which marks the Macchina di Santa Rosa. Notice at the left of the picture below we have a group of men dressed as chimney sweeps, bringing in yet another of the traditions of the new year.

The procession then turns around at the gate and returns bearing ... a giant sock! In principle, it is the largest stocking in the world. Or at least that is the claim of the organizers.

It is carried on top of 11 Fiat 500s, supported between cars by wooden broomsticks held by a witch on each end.

The entire thing is lead by a quintet of cars and trailed by 11 more of the colorful beasts all honking their individualized horns.

The procession is quite a sight, to say the least, as these Fiat 500s are tiny little cars that remind me of the little things the Shriners travel around on in parades. Most have a sunroof and there were, unbelievably, 3-4 people in each car. The engine is in the rear and there is no cooling system so the operators usually leave the rear trunk open to keep the cars from overheating.