Sunday, March 4, 2012

Segesta

A bit further up the western coast from Selinunte lie the ruins of the city of Segesta. Segesta was one of the three principal cites of the Elymian people, one of the indigenous populations of Sicily. They were major rivals of the city of Selinunte. The ruins lie on top of Monte Barbaro. Again, they are relatively removed from any modern habitation. There are three interesting archeological entities. Two date from the 400’s BC. It was at that time that the city of Segesta formed an alliance with Athens. In order to cultivate the relationship they built a Greek theater and temple. To get to the theater you must negotiate a 2 km long road which climbs nearly 300 meters. It is quite a hike. Once you arrive at the top you are treated to a spectacular view out over the surrounding countryside. The theater was entirely restored between 1995 and 2001. Again, the newer portions are easily recognizable by the different building materials used and by bronze plaques set into the concrete. The acoustics are magnificent. From the right spot within the theater you can turn away from the audience and speak towards the mountains in little more than a whisper and still be heard. There is some wonderful science of diffraction and reflection occurring there.

Much further down the mountain are the remains of a 6 x 14 column, Doric temple. Apparently, once the cooperation and alliance with the Athenians was arranged, the residents never bothered to complete the temple. The external frame is intact, but there is absolutely no evidence that any cella and interior features were ever completed. In fact, it is likely that there was never even a roof. The presence of these quintessentially Greek buildings is remarkable given that the Greeks were a relatively minor (but still important) part of the community.


The final interesting bit of ruins is what is left from a Muslim mosque near an old Norman Castle on top of the same hill with the theater. While it doesn’t look like much and can barely be discerned in the picture below, it is one of the few, if not only, holy remnants of the Muslim community in all of Sicily. It likely dates from the 12th century and was destroyed by the Christians at the beginning of the 13th century shortly before the city was abandoned in the second half of the 13th century. Coincidence? Well, probably.

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