La Befana

I doubt that I will ever truly understand the mix of paganism which permeates Christianity. No place is that more evident for me than the Viterbese celebration of Epiphany. I mean, please, what do you get when you cross a Halloween witch with Christmas? Why, la Befana. If you go to Google Translate, as I have been known to do, befana is Epiphany while la befana is the witch. Go figure! And, what better way to celebrate Epihpany than with a parade featuring a giant Christmas stocking, carried by witches and Fiat 500s!

The parade unfolds with a now familiar rhythm. Police whistles sound as the parking police clear the parade route, posted in advance with parking warnings. Almost every parade in Viterbo (and there are many) goes down most, if not all, of Via Cavour and Via Garibaldi. This time that is the entire route. A straight shot from Porta Romana to the Piazza del Plebescito. Next comes a small tempo group of drums marching along the parade route.

When we heard this, Amy and I exited our apartment and took up our position at the corner of our street at the intersection with Via Garibaldi. When we arrived the entire street was deserted, but within minutes the crowds had begun to arrive and there was quite a festive atmosphere a half hour later when the procession began by marching in reverse up along the parade route. The bearers, dressed as witches are preceded by a marching band and trailed by a small group of cars.

The witches are linked arm in arm, just as the faccini who carry the tower for Santa Rosa. Paying homage, tongue in cheek, mocking? Who knows? Once everyone arrives at Porta Romana, they arrange themselves and head back down the hill, this time escorting a giant, balloon filled sock supported on top of a dozen or so Fiat 500s. First up are 5 cars carrying witches throwing candy to the children along the route.

Next is the sock itself. This year’s creation is the longest yet at 53.2 m according to the local newspaper.

The witches who walk beside the cars are carrying long poles decorated as broomsticks which help support the portion of the sock which is suspended between the little cars.

Most watchers flood the street after the parade passes and trail the sock down to the piazza. However, Amy and I were done. We also did not participate the next day when the witch descended from a tower in the main square, throwing candy. Again, as someone passingly familiar with Christian traditions, I am baffled by the entire production. But, it is all good fun!