Gradara

Each of the 20 regions of Italy is divided into provinces and comune. In the province of Pesaro and Urbino is the comune of Gradara. The town is dominated by a monstrously large medieval castle called, not coincidently, Gradara Castle. The castle has two walls. A small, thriving community of residents and shops exists within the outer wall.

We visited on Valentine’s Day, one of the major celebrations for this town.

A costumed, local guide led us through a museum dedicated to the weapons and instruments of torture from Medieval times and then into the castle. The inner wall of the castle is merely the second line of defense with an additional moat and imposing fortress inside of that.

Due to its commanding site atop a major crossroads, the castle was the site of many clashes between forces loyal to the Pope and the families of the region loyal to the Emperor. For such a large presence, there is actually a relatively small, inner courtyard. This would actually also have made a defense of the site easier were someone to battle their way through everything which came before.

The castle itself is now done up as a museum, furnished as below, as it might have looked at the height of its importance during medieval times.

Legend has it that the castle is the setting for the tragic love story of Paolo and Francesca from Canto 5 of Dante’s Divine Comedy. Canto 5 is the introduction to the second circle of hell, often described as the true beginning of hell, as it is there that people begin to be punished for their sins. In the second circle are those damned for their carnal lust. The two lovers were killed by Francesca’s husband when he caught them in each other’s arms. One room in the castle has been converted by a previous owner to exactly mirror Dante’s description, complete with trap door in the floor and secret doors by which to observe.

What tour of a castle would be complete without a trip to the family’s private chapel?

In our free time that afternoon, Amy and I registered in the “Book of Love” at the local chamber of commerce and feasted on free chocolate Valentine hearts. As you can see, we were couple number 294 to do so.