Calcio (Soccer) Italy vs. Germany

Calcio (soccer) is BIG in Italy, but it is hard to comprehend just how big until you are living here. Every little town has its own team and rivalries are intense. There are myriad leagues, with Serie A being the top, and individuals often root for a team within each league. Here in Viterbo there is a local team (I think in Serie D) and most people root for Serie A Juventus, Lazio or Roma. Fans aren’t just fans, they are true fanatics. You don’t want to walk around the wrong part of town or into the wrong bar wearing the wrong team jersey. Sure, during daylight you probably won’t be physically accosted, but you could get some serious verbal abuse. Note, I said probably. At night, don’t count on being left alone.

The only time Italians come together concerning soccer is on the international stage, which brings me to Euro2012, the European soccer championship, which has been taking place since the beginning of the month. Unnoticed by all but a few Americans amidst the Supreme Court ruling on Obamacare, last night Italy played Germany in the semifinals of the tourney. This takes place within the context of the ongoing Euro Zone crisis which has largely pitted the more economically stable northern countries, including Germany, against the economically softer southern countries including Greece, Spain and Italy. When Germany played Greece last week in the quarterfinals, the Greeks hoped to beat them to salvage some sense of national dignity, but it was not to be as they lost 4-2. Most pundits expected a final between Spain, the defending European and World Cup champions, and Germany. But first, Germany had to get by Italy.

Our new apartment is no more than 100 meters from three different bars/coffee shops. The closest one, the Break Bar, is directly below our front windows. Last night they set up a TV outside and showed the Italy-Germany game for their patrons. Amy and I decided to join them since we were going to listen to the game through our open windows anyway. The twenty or so viewers leapt out of their seats for every save, shot, great pass and goal. They gestured emphatically, cursed and carried on for every foul and missed opportunity. They went crazy when Italy prevailed 2-1! Content with the outcome I went upstairs to head to bed around 10:30 PM. Then the fun began. A few minutes after the game ended, a chorus of car horns could be heard blowing repeatedly in celebration as the drivers took to the streets circling around town to express their joy. For the first few minutes it was uplifting, after five minutes it was annoying, after 15 minutes you REALLY wanted it to end and by the time it was all over at midnight I sort of wished that Italy had lost. On Sunday we have the opportunity to go through the entire thing again as Italy takes on Spain in the finals. Will you be watching? We undoubtedly will.

Purmerend to Amsterdam: 8 June 12

The last full day of our barge tour dawned overcast, but rainless.

The planned route took us over what would have been the final stages of our ride last year. In other words, we split one ride into two. It is somewhat remarkable how close you can get to Amsterdam, a city of 3/4 of a million people, before you know you are in a city. Of course, that is exaggerated by the course chosen for the bike route which takes you through parks and along the canals. The lack of rain was compensated for by a stiff headwind for most of the ride. The ride ended with a free ferry ride across to the Central Station and a zip to the Nemo to await the arrival of the Noorderzon.

Unfortunately, they were delayed by a long detour around a closed bridge and rain squalls and heavy winds had arrived before they docked. We did use the time to scout out the quickest route to the cruise terminal. We spent the middle of the afternoon in a pay laundromat so that we would arrive at the cruise with everything clean and ready to wear. Our final dinner was a traditional Dutch theme. It began with a vegetable soup followed by potatoes, carrots and peas, mixed salad and a salmon/cod dish with a mushroom and cheese sauce. Desert was crème fresche with strawberries and raspberry sauce. Total distance 26 km.

Alkmaar to Purmerend: 7 June 12

It wasn't raining when we sat down to breakfast and, while threatening, the weather held through the afternoon with only an occasional sprinkle. So, Amy joined me on the windmill tour from Alkmaar to Purmerend. We were familiar with the path having done all but the last 10 km four years ago. We passed several dozen windmills along the way.

Interestingly enough, most have been converted into private homes, complete with grazing sheep like the three differently colored lambs below.

Around half way through the trip there were a trio which were still working, pumping water up some two meters and over a dam. One of those housed a museum. Amy and I spent an hour wandering the exhibits on our previous trip so we didn't spend the money for the admission this time. With the exception of picture stops to capture things such as the multi colored peonies below,

we came straight through until we reached a little canal ferry.

This was a bit traumatic for us as it was the same little boat which had been on holiday the last time we were through, causing us to ride 10+ extra kilometers on a day which was already very long. Today the ferry was running and we stopped on the far side for Amy to have coffee and apple pie.

Purmerend is another pretty cheese city which is essentially a suburb of Amsterdam. It should be a relatively short ride to end in Amsterdam, even if we take a twisty, turny route in. Dinner began with liverwurst, toast and a fruit dip. Next was bacon wrapped pork tenderloin, peas and a mixed salad. Dessert was orange crepe with crème fresche. Total distance 38 km.

Den Helden to Alkmaar: 6 June 12

Captain Bart must have used up all his coins to produce the weather Tuesday, as we awoke once again to steady light rain. Amy opted for the boat, so I went off by myself to ride through the dunes. 

Much of the seacoast is protected by a series of sand dunes which are protected in a national park. As beautiful as they are, riding through the dunes provides one thing most of the rest of The Netherlands lacks - hills. Dutch bike + hills = not so much fun, but the scenery with the wind and rain was quite spectacular.

There was one stretch some 3 miles long where the dunes were missing and the Dutch leapt into the breach with a monstrous sea dike. In addition to holding back the sea, it provided the opportunity for a nasty ride straight into the wind.

The ride continued through the town of Bergen where I took this photo of the famous ruined church. The bulk of it was bomobed out, and only a portion rebuilt so you can wander the grounds which were actually mostly inside the area of the original church.

The ride finished in the city of Alkmaar. I arrived a few minutes after the boat, drenched to the skin. Once the rain had cleared, which it inevitably did, Amy and I took a walk through town to the site of the weekly cheese market which takes place on Friday. I actually did this particular ride 4 years ago on the Flower Tour, so it was familiar and at the same time different. On that trip, we rode all the way into Amsterdam the next day while this time the remaining distance is split and we have another full day of riding before doing that. The theme for dinner was Indonesian. Indonesia was at one time a Dutch colony and the Dutch adopted parts of their spices and cuisine. Unlike Italians, the Dutch appear to be adventurous eaters. Spring rolls, dried banana and potato sticks were followed by various finger foods such as fried onions, pickled stuff and peanuts, a chicken-rice dish and pork satay and a fruit salad to cap it all off.

Total distance 24 km.

Texel: 5 June 12

The day began overcast with patches of blue sky and NO rain! It promised to be the best day, weather wise, of the trip which was fortunate as it was also the most anticipated day as we headed off on our bicycles to catch the ferry to the island of Texel (pronounced tessel). The ferry ride was uneventful, although getting to it was a bit dodgy. Signs had us going in two directions at once and we chose the "wrong" one first. Dutch wooden shoes are more than a quaint souvenir, the Dutch do wear them. The farmer at the B&B we stayed at two years ago wore them to work in his barns. Yesterday on the ferry was the first time I saw someone wearing them to cycle in. He had his special wooden dress shoes on, complete with little leather straps tacked across the toe to make it look like he had shoelaces. Texel is the largest of a chain of pseudo barrier islands. There is a true hill there which was formed glacially.

The island is known for its sheep/wool. Rather than take a picture of a lot of sheep, I took one instead of the zebra we passed instead.

We cycled through most of the main villages on the island and around by the sand dunes. Our attempt to stop at the island brewery was thwarted as it was only open for visitors for one hour on Tuesdays, and it didn't happen to coincide with the time we were there. We bought a bottle of their bock at a small shop and enjoyed it later that evening on the barge. It was most excellent. We had lunch near the dunes and made our way back to the ferry by way of the marine exhibit where Amy went in and communed with the seals. This is the sister ship of our ferry, taken from the one we were on.

We stopped in several places looking for Texel wool to purchase for my sister Emily for a Christmas present, but were unsuccessful in finding any. Perhaps it was just the wrong time of year as the spring sheep shearing was still underway as we rode around the island. The theme for dinner was Italian: zucchini soup, lasagna, roasted veggies and custard. Total distance 43 km.

Medemblik to Den Helder: 4 June 12

The weather did NOT clear overnight and we were greeted by light but steady rain as we began our day over breakfast. The Germans decided to brave the weather with the Dutch ladies. The full ride was almost 60 km with additional for getting lost and exploring. Amy, I and the Aussie couple stayed put on the boat. The plan was to get off at one of the locks and ride from there, but when we arrived at the designated spot, the rain was still coming down and it was cold, so all but I continued on with the boat. My ride was, shall we say, pastoral. Lots of open fields, a few with remnants of tulips as the season was fairly late this year. But, there was little in the way of interesting architecture, livestock, etc. and the path spent a lot of time either on roads or paralleling a main highway. One interesting part of the trip was catching a little ferry across a canal for 0.50 euros. That whole experience is sort of surreal. The sign for the bike path points straight ahead, but the road simply ends in the water. You look across and see a boat which comes over, picks you up and then deposits you on the other side. The rain was gradually diminishing and stopped altogether a few minutes after I reached Den Helder, our day's destination. As I was wet and it was still cold, I went for a spin around the area to stay warm until the boat arrived. Apparently, almost all of the original buildings were destroyed by the Germans during WW2 so that they would have a more commanding view of the strategic ocean point. The resulting rebuild didn't produce much in the way of interesting stuff. The gray, dreary day didn't do much to help either. Dinner was cold ham, onion and tomato quiche, boiled potatoes, with spicy lamb stew and raspberry compote with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream for dessert. Total distance 25 + 11 km.

Enkhuizen to Medemblik: 3 June 12

We awoke to overcast, wind and rain. The water was choppy. We were originally scheduled to make for Hoorn over breakfast, but the wind out of the northeast made that impossible so we went to Enkhuizen instead. The combination of wind, rain and low temperatures made for a raw day of cycling. Amy decided to stay with the boat and travel to Medemblik the long way, traveling well out beyond the destination and then angling back in to keep the boat from moving too badly. The Germans chose to leave the boat, but take public transportation to find their way to our stop. I borrowed a rain poncho and, with a couple of others, made the trip. The rain let up after half an hour, and the trip was actually quite pleasant. The route took me out of Enhuizen past this fanatically decorated street.

The ride was mostly along the way along the top of a dike where I saw this spectacular sailboat in a picture reminiscent of the old Dutch Masters.

I arrived in Medemblik a few hours before the boat to discover that they were having a choral festival, so I was able to listen to half a dozen singing groups as the rest of the company arrived.

Dinner was mushrooms, shallots and parsley sautéed in butter and served on toast followed by salad, oven baked fries, green beans with garlic and tomato and chicken. We finished with desert of strawberry rhubarb compote. The sky appeared to be clearing, which gave hope for tomorrow which is planned to be the first really substantial ride of the trip. Total distance 28 km.

Uitdam to Volendam: 2 June 12

We began the day at the airport and took the train into the city. Amy found some clothes that fit, at the airport train station no less. We walked to the barge along the main canal and were greeted at the boat like old friends. Were joined by 10 Germans in a group together, 2 Aussies, 2 Dutch women and one man who was Dutch but had lived for 40 years in Australia. We left Amsterdam around 3 pm and sailed right past the ship we will be taking to the Arctic in a week. We stopped in Uitdam to fit out our bikes and then took a quick spin to Marken where we crossed to Volendam on a ferry. Here is a view of the lovely contryside around Marken.

These are the two Dutch women, having tea in Marken while waiting for the ferry.

The weather was cooler than we had become accustomed to in Italy, so it was back to long pants, undershirt and chamois. Some riders back tracked and then rode the distance to harbor. Here the Noorderzon makes for its mooring in Volendam.

We took several nice strolls along the waterfront, one before dinner and one after. It is a lively, loud place.

We were seated at dinner with all the non-Germans. So far in the brief time we have been together the Germans have shown no interest in hanging out with anyone not in their group, but that might change. Everybody at our table speaks English so that is our language of choice. Dinner was a homemade beef broth with onion, salad, white fish with bacon and tomato, mashed beet and potato, fruit and yogurt. We went to sleep, quite comfortable in our cabin. Total distance 6.5 km.

Changes

I have to apologize to anyone who follows this blog regularly. I haven't said much, because I haven't had much to say. Yesterday and today are times of transition for Amy and me. School is over for the year. No more meetings, comments, etc. The only thing left to do there is write letters of recommendation for a few students next fall. Yesterday we essentially moved out of our current apartment, storing most of our belongings in the apartment we will occupy next year but which still has another family living in it. This is part of an apartment shuffle which is happening to accomodate a summer school faculty member who is coming on Sunday. And why, you might ask, would we vacate our apartment if we had nowhere to go? Well, we DO have somewhere to go. By the time most (any?) of you read this we will be on our way to Amsterdam for the start of three weeks of summer travel. We spend tonight in an airport hotel, then start our bike and barge trip and when that is done pick up a cruise ship and head to Norway and the Arctic Circle. Upon our return to Viterbo we will move into our new digs.

It is increasingly possible to get internet, so we will likely be reading e-mail semi-regularly if you need to get in touch with us. However, I don't imagine I will have much of a chance to post to this blog until our return. I will take good notes, so expect a pile of posts when we return. Ciao!