Christmas is a big deal in this officially Catholic country. It is hard to comment without sounding judgmental, but what the hey. Christmas somehow seems more genuine here. There is no “Thanksgiving” to mark the official beginning of the Christmas season, which somehow seems to push further and further toward Halloween in the US. To be certain, lights go up all over town and businesses do have Christmas sales, but it doesn’t seem like there is quite the same fervent commercial aspect to the celebration.
The season of celebration in Viterbo begins with the lighting of the Christmas tree in the Piazza della Plebescito on December 8, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, the celebration of the fact that Mary officially got knocked up without the pleasure of fooling around. We were in Athens that weekend and thus missed the official celebration. Many of the main streets in Viterbo are strung with overhead lights as well.
Last night was a special commercial day in Viterbo as all of the shops stayed open until midnight with special last-minute Christmas sales. The streets were crowded with people out for a passagiata under the lights such as these above the fountain in the Piazza del Erbe.
There was live music in the main square near the tree.
Santa came riding past in a black carriage drawn by a black horse. He was preceded by a marching band playing no less than “Smoke on the Water” when they passed us and trailed by a retinue of helpers, some dressed ominously in black, hooded capes, others as elves.
Also open was an edible exhibition of chocolate. Some of the creations were fantastic including this all fondente tree with a nativity scene in the middle.
At home we have a more modest display of a tree and ornaments we found left in the apartment. Amy is delighted by the fact that the Grinch has no pants!
We are looking forward to the arrival of my sister Emily to celebrate the holidays with us. She arrives at FCO tomorrow morning.
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